We had promised ourselves a Bosphorous Cruise, denied last year because of atrocious weather. So we decided on the full day tour and hopped a slow ferry that goes all the way up the Bosphorous, stops to allow you a leisurely lunch, and returns in the same slow fashion. By the end of the day we wanted to attach a few Evinrude motors to the back, but it was pleasant.
We took the ferry close to the Galata Tower Bridge which is double layered, with road, tramline and many fishermen along the top and multiple fish cafes underneath. Along the way we saw the graceful suspension bridges, some of the old palaces and fortifications, amazingly luxurious summer beach houses of past pashas, viziers and consulates to the small fishing villages. The water is rich with fish and amazingly clear given the amount of shipping traffic that passes through to the Black Sea.
 Galata Bridge, Galata Tower in background |  Fence of Dolmabache palace |  Suspension Bridge |  Fortifications and Sultan Mehmet Bridge |
Summer house |  Pretty fishing village of Anadolu Kavagi |  Fish fight over our bread |  Fort above Andolu Kavagi |
While at the village of Anadolu Kavagi we ate at a seafront café (they all try to entice you in) fed bread to the fish and watched them fight for it, then wandered back, passing a string of parked, shiny, black cars and young men in suits with walkie talkie earpieces. Hmm! Seems the local governor and possibly also the president were worshipping at the local mosque. Later they walked a little, pressing the flesh of locals (we were politely ignored) while the cars followed. The most we could manage was a photograph of the VIP number plate. Then they all hopped into the cars and departed. Our brush with fame!
VIP numberplate
We also took the ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul at Kadikoy, this time a fast ferry trip, but we had neglected to do our homework in advance and could find little of interest at the end of the trip. This was not helped by the fact that the map handed out by the Tourist Office has almost no street names. Our fault. We revisited places like the Grand and Spice Bazaars and also the Arasta bazaar where I found some lovely Ikat silk in cream and raspberry shades.
 Spices |  Sweetmeats |  I think apricots |  I have no idea. Any guesses? |
 Ceiling of Grand Bazaar |  Detail of gold filigree cuff |  Turkish delight (he selected far too much for us. Alas, we had to eat it) |  The fish market |
Seeing the wall of the city was quite an eye-opener. We had seen vestiges on the way to and from the airport, but further north they are very solid structures well suited to defending a city. The aqueduct, as well, is still standing in parts; the traffic even drives under it, giving witness to a history very different from ours in Australia.
 The very solid walls of the city (somewhat restored) |  The amazing aqueduct |
A few additional sights including some of the rather nice Topaz restaurant where we ate Ottoman food with a view of some substance
 Interior of tram |  Birds on a wire at Eminimou |  Blue Mosque |  Istanbul University |
 Exotic lights at Topaz restaurant |  View at Topaz restaurant |  More usual restaurant view |  Istanbul waterfront |
The thing we noticed most was that there were so many more tourists than on our last trip in April 2011. There were more places open, it seemed, but also huge crowds in places like the spice bazaar or walking down Istikal Street, even for entrance to Agia Sophia with queues already at 9am.
Finally, as we checked into the airport very early in the morning, we asked re the lounge we could use. Turkish Airlines were delighted to have us stop with them as a part of the Star Alliance. I have NEVER seen an airline lounge (business class) as swish and luxe as this, and wish I had taken more photos. Designed like a series of interlocking spheres, it had a lavish use of mirrors, separate areas such as a “gentleman’s club” equipped with a library of glossy books on Turkey and a billiard table, several “cafe” type areas, a curtained alcove for resting/sleeping and so on. Multiple types of food and drink as well, all part of the service. The piece de resistance was the ladies loo. Again, all mirrors, including in the cubicle (not sure re that, multiple reflections of me on the pedestal is not required) a forest of phalaenopsis orchids, waterfall taps into a granite shallow basin, stools for the kiddies to stand on and little make-up stations with places for your purse, well away from the wet area. United, please take note!
 Cafe tables in the lounge |  Sleeping alcove and transparent lockers |  Washbasin area |
Next stop: Toledo, Spain
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